Відео

Love it man.. thank you

Thanks very well explained👍🏼

What if I hear the fuel pump kick on but no pressure at the fuel rail? Could the pump still be faulty or could it be with the module? Thanks

Great video,helps alot Just a query,which specific oil did you use and how many litres did you use?

Im 90 percent sure this is my problem on a 2000 chevy 3500. Just starting making noises and grew from there.

Had an escape where if it ran for a bit and you turned it off to like go in a store, it would stall when it starts back up. Going to try this and if that doesn't work, ive also read that the fuel pump mega fuse can be the issue too

I've got a 07 Dodge ram slt 1500 4.7 liter dead in the driveway cranks but NO start I hope there the il give it a try if your right I'll send you $20.00 bucks

Thank you!!!

Love a DIYer

For anyone that finds this comment, my 2015 suburban (Tahoe, Yukon etc) lift gate would not open, specifically it would not unlock. I could only open from the inside with a screw driver. If you you hit the liftgate handle inside button (switch) the tail lights blinked and you heard a click. The same thing happened when you used the key fob. Now I knew my struts needed replacing as the liftgate would sometimes stop lifting, but there’s tons of videos on that. So I replaced those. I looked at fuses (the ones in the rear control the liftgate), replaced the switch , and unfortunately used an Amazon replacement for the latch assembly which some others have recommended. Finally as a last ditch I went to a dealership and bought the OEM latch assembly (part 13542450). Works like a charm now. Moral of this story, the generic parts don’t work, at least for me. I saw one other person who had this same experience in a comment for some video or forum. Get the OEM part. Hope that helps someone.

Mine doesn't have that little access hole. What next???

will that fit on a 2013 silverado 1500?

Thumps up subscribe. Desiel only ignited under pressure and heat at the beginning. Is needed god bless

I got my fuel pump control module replaced and reprogrammed, and my check engine light is still on for the control module. Would it be a wiring issue?? My code that pops up is P069E

GOOD MAN THANKS FOR YOUR HELP IT SAVE ME THE LABOR ❤ IT

GOOD MAN THANKS FOR YOUR HELP IT SAVE ME THE LABOR ❤ IT

Really struggled with that tire though lol

Good luck breaking it

I have fixed this for 100 usd.

Thanks fella. Best tutorial I found to help. Appreciate it🎉🎉🎉

Okay so it takes 4 quarts. Why is it necessary to warm it up and make sure?

I have to replace mine now. Did you ever find one cheaper than the $900 dealer one? Please let me know so I can order one. Thanks.

It looks as though it was actually designed to flip it the other way, where the threaded rod is in the center of the axle shaft, that way its pushing against the center of the axle shaft, which pulls the bearing out evenly, also you just damaged your ABS wheel speed sensor because you didn't remove it out of the hub, and third thing, is you NEVER use an impact gun on hardened threaded pullers, you need to use a socket and breaker bar or large ratchet, but never an impact gun, because you will damage the threads on your puller, even worse if you borrowed a puller from a friend then damage it. 🤔🧐😯

Hi thanks so much for this excellent and helpful video sir! I noticed oil residue around the mass air sensor and intake on my sister in laws 300 so I now know how to change it out - very similar location to the 3.5 in my older 300. Thanks and cheers!

Appreciate the video. I have a rusty bolt too and need to get a bolt extractor kit. Why not replace the rusty bolt once off?

Where are you located Tomfoolery? Looking for someone to fix my air in my 2012 ram 5500.

Thanks so much. Saved $600

Broke the flange off with it

Looks like the parts of the dash have to be removed to replace the right side passenger actuator...also the airbag, yes?

Very helpful!!!!!

I’ve had to do the TPS reset a handful of times this last week so I’ll be replacing the TB once I get the new one. Our regular shop made the “relearn” process sound daunting. But if it’s just a matter of letting it run for a while I don’t see why I can’t just do it myself. They also emphasized to have the battery disconnected and not hit the gas at first start up. This was the best video I’ve found for this replacement. Fingers crossed.

How come no one does filter change

Don't understand why there is a relay. Fuel pump should have one fues on and off with the car. I moved mine to a fues not being used and it's work for ever. Relays should only be on turn signals and starters.

Great vid!! Helped me so much thank you

Yep happen to me. 2011 2500

Talk about on the piss

Mine is so random it can happen three or four times in just a couple miles or I can go 2 weeks before it happens or once a day

You make it look so easy. Thanks for all your videos?

Excellent video. You don't see many people recording the struggle that we have with stuck parts and other issues. So when someone asks why it's taking longer than expected 😅🤣

Thank you! It kinda sucks you cant change the filter on the other hand it is nice just to have a drain plug.

I’m having the same issue with my Taurus but I think it’s because of a mad tech that didn’t get a steering rack replacement job cause the light was not on till it left the Ridiculous priced dealership

Thank you so much bro

I got a replacement kit for the fuel pump relay kit could not get the mopar one on Amazon . I got one but it has the brown wire, blue wire, then a red wire, can’t figure out where the red wire goes, can anyone help

U have a headlight out on passenger side

Best to sell it before needing to do it. Sell it to a guy like this removing it.

Those Clark loaders had the toughest transmissions in the industry. With the twin stall speed torque converter, you just pushed into something, held the throttle pinned down, and it would build up torque to move whatever you were against.

Remove that speed sensor FIRST before pulling the knuckle

Im having same issue with my 06 chevy silverado, i cant find that ground wire, on passenger side,i did all other ground wires ,i have the reduced engine power come on, and with a small scanner i clear and truck drives fine

Is there a way to stop it from dying im gonna take it to the shop cause it’s under warranty but but until then because it dies at the most random times

I have a question, could you use 1 jack on either side or does it have to be evenly lifted to change the rear strut?